I found this mouse infested barn job in Heyworth, IL in 1987. It was covered with grain dust and had resident mice in it's original mufflers - evicted on the first kick. The Tillotson carburetor was too cantankerous to reliably kickstart, replaced it with a Bendix. The Fairbanks Morse Magneto kill wire terminal grommet had cracked and grounded the kill terminal - which impaired starting substantially. I replaced the grommet and the magneto about paralyzed me first time I spun it. Reinstalled and timed, the bike was now an easy starter. You had to remember the left grip needed rolled forward (retard it to start it) when kick starting to avoid the eventual handlebar acrobatics. The drum brakes suck, plan your stops. Stop looking for turn signals - these don't have them. The head light at idle dims and brightens as the uneven idle varies generator output beyond the capability of the voltage regulator and DC Capacitor. Get good at adjusting valves. Properly set pushrods at cool temperatures will expand in hotter temperatures, slightly holding valves open - and zero compression is noted when starting after a gas stop. Hear that tink-tink-tink of the engine? That's contraction. Once that stops - the bike will gladly kick start again. You can adjust some slop in the valves to avoid this. You'll have initial valve noise when cold - but at least she will start.
- Conan Roberts, Florida
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